Blogging from the Bog

   In our globalised economy and lifestyle many things have changed here in Ireland.  The increase in discretionary income has allowed for more frequent travel, a larger variety of exotic food and beverages on our grocery shelves, and some changes in our consumption patterns.  One notable item features high on our new shopping list, wine, the Irish are now in love with the nectar of the vine. 

   Amid all the controversy with global warming, fuel prices, and a slumping world economy the French wine growers, Irish truckers, UK and Scottish fisherman, and others around Europe are reacting to rising costs, EU controls and dwindling profits by holding strikes, slow downs and riots.  Is this a sign of the times and a preview of what is to come?  Or, will we take a pro-active stance, adapt as humans are capable of, and rise to the challenges we face as we approach peak oil?

   In late July a ship will quietly leave a dock in France bound for Irish shores, it’s hold will contain 12,000 bottles of wine for the thirsty Irish market, and it will be using free fuel.  A three-masted schooner, the Kathleen & May, is scheduled to deliver her cargo to the Dublin port on the 25th of July.  Over one hundred years old, the sailing vessel is one of many operated by the Compagnie de Transport Maritime a la Voile, and according to company executives will save nearly 5 ounces of carbon emissions per bottle. 

   Will we again see horse drawn wagons and a return of the canal barges in Dublin?  We can only hope! 

   On Friday the European Union instructed member countries to tighten border security.  The new policies will include fingerprinting and screening of all visitors, including North Americans, Africans and others coming to European countries and will cost several billion dollars.

   Nicolas Sarkozy will take over the leadership position of the EU on the first of July and is making "border management" and immigration policies some of his top priorities.  Other items on Sarkozy’s plan for Europe include boosting Europe’s military defences and energy security.  The Lisbon Treaty may be dead but the agenda behind it is not.

   Satellite tracking will be used to monitor "illegal immigrants" and many believe privacy and human rights abuses could result.  Will this have any effect on tourism?  Will our visitors appreciate the Cead Mille Failte after they are photographed, fingerprinted, and processed?

   Spencer Tunick was at it again this week in Ireland.  A few days ago an installation, photo-shoot, was organised on the grounds of Blarney Castle in Cork and today one is being done at the Dublin docks.  Tunick, famous for his photographs of large groups of naked volunteers, made his Irish debut Wednesday at the castle with 1200 enthusiastic participants.

   Braving the chill early morning Irish mists the models were asked to strip off and follow instructions for four different scenes around the castle including clutching roses, standing in the cold water holding gold coins, and "mooning" the camera. 

   Usually public displays of nudity are against the law here in Ireland but the members of the Cork Midsummer Festival were granted special permission to hold the event to coincide with the celebrations.

   This video shows the crowd following Tunick’s direction, notice the big coats and wooly hats in the beginning! Brave souls indeed, all in the name of art!

   The character and integrity of the Irish and European politicians will be on display next week as they meet in Brussels to explore the ramifications of Ireland’s rejection of the referendum.  The Treaty of Lisbon had to be approved by every member country to come into force on January, 1st, 2009.  At least that is what we were told initially, it now seems there may be yet another democratic deficit within the Uber Union.

   As previously agreed, by all nations concerned, the rule was set that if one country rejected the Treaty that it was dead.  Will the politicians of Europe stand by this decision or will the rule be changed?  Will the Irish election results be ignored?  It seems so as the remaining eight countries are being encouraged to continue the ratification process.  In the coming weeks and months Ireland’s "NO" vote will do more than just send a message to Brussels, it will shine a democratic light on the institution itself in a way that a "YES" vote could never have done.

   Our own fledgling leader, Brian Cowen, who asked us to rubber-stamp this referendum without bothering to read it himself, will be facing his European counterparts next week with a democratic dilemma.  Will he respect the people of his nation and declare to the Union that the Treaty of Lisbon is a non-runner?  Or will he conspire with them to circumvent due process?  Barroso, Merkel, and Sarkozy are in denial.   Sarkozy, who will ascend to the EU Presidency on July 1st, is going full steam ahead with his plans for a European navy!  Do you think they are going to let a simple thing like the Irish democratic process get in their way?

 Tell ‘em Brian!

   We got back into Trim a little later than I hoped as our gracious innkeeper had suggested a bit of live music was going on that Monday night at Griffin’s in the town.  Hurrying passed the ancient castle, where some of the scenes from the movie Braveheart were filmed, we came upon a very quiet town, all the pub doors were closed and silent.  Things were not looking good.  We turned a couple of corners on the empty street and found Griffin’s, the door was slightly ajar so in we went.

   The place was packed and there was a great buzz of activity, lucky for us the barmen were still serving, so I doubled our drink order (just in case) while the others checked the rooms out.  They found a table next to a fireplace and right in front of the band, so the four of us settled down to a table full of pints.  The musicians were quenching their thirsts too and seemed in no hurry to get the instruments tuned so we got a chance to chat a bit about our good luck and take a few snaps.  Those keen Meath men were not long in sussing out the situation and began a session that would delight any tourist.  Banjo, mandolin, accordian and guitar rang out and voices from stage and audience sang the songs.

   More pints kept arriving as if from thin air (the girls adapted quickly to the Irish system of buying rounds), and the music was brilliant.  Most of the songs were familiar but some were not, all were entertaining.  As the banter between the crowd, the band and us became easy and familiar it began to seem as if time were standing still and we were at a party with old friends.  It was a great night, our innkeeper was right.  Gerry Tully was the guitar player and sang most of the songs, as luck would have it Gerry has a website and has posted some of his music on the Net, you can catch him at Griffin’s most Monday or Wednesday nights.  All the best Gerry, thanks for the great show, and good luck with the new album!

   There’s nothing like a fine day in the Big Smoke so we made a brief visit to the city one afternoon.  Our aim was to get an early start in the morning for Newgrange and the Hill of Tara so Trim seemed like an advantageous place to stay overnight.  We checked into our lodgings at the White Lodge B&B and headed for Dublin, by bus, no designated driver needed!

   We made our way down by Custom House Quay where the replica of the Jeanie Johnston is sometimes moored, I gave a brief description and history about the original vessel and hoped that she was in.  She was.  What I didn’t tell my tourists was that Rowan Gillespie’s larger-than-life Famine Memorial (pictured) would greet them as we crossed over to the waterside.  It is an emotional sight no matter how many times you might visit it; but, to come upon it unexpectedly for the first time can have a tremendous impact, and it did.

   The onshore breezes seemed a bit chillier as we crossed one of the many bridges and headed towards the city, so I thought it was about time the girls got properly introduced to the Irish antidote for the chills.  The Hot Whiskey!  No better place than Fitzgerald’s on Aston Quay, and Fitzgerald’s is, without a doubt, the best spot in Dublin for hot whiskies and Irish Stew, we were not disappointed.

   Our next stop, Temple Bar, was right around the corner.  Temple Bar is a cultural area in the inner city that has markets, street performers, restaurants, and of course pubs, one of which is called The Temple Bar, go figure!  Treading along the cobblestones we listened to the musicians, visited the shops, took some photos, and worked up a mighty thirst!  It wasn’t long before we were settled in nicely at The Temple Bar, each with a pint of black, one for the road so-to-speak.

   This short visit to the fair city was coming too soon to an end but we were at the mercy of Bus Eireann.  We went by the Ha’penny Bridge, over to O’Connell Street, saw a few statues, the GPO, and the spire on our way to the bus station.  It had been a long trip and an eventful day, little did we know then that it was only half over or what was waiting for us in Trim!

   There was nothing but blue skies and fine weather this past month for our journey around Ireland.  The one or two afternoons of misty rain were almost like special effects put on for our benefit when visiting some of the ancient sites and monuments and only enhanced the experience.  We took the time to take in some of the local flavour and colour whenever we could and met some interesting characters as well as visiting the major tourist attractions. 

   It’s a busy time of the year around here in the bog and although I’ve settled back in after the experience my blogging will be somewhat sporatic in the next while but I will be posting soon about some of the places and the people we met along the way.  It was a delight to play host to my American visitors and to catch up with all that has happened over the years with them.  If they had half as good a time as I did they will be very happy indeed with their holiday here.

   To Mona, Jody, and Cheryl who were such good travelling companions, conversationalists, and drinking partners, "Slainte!"